Researchers have discovered the earliest known use of graphite in ancient eye makeup, kohl, shedding new light on cosmetic practices in Iron Age Iran.
A 2,700-year-old burial at the Kani Koter cemetery in northwestern Iran contained a ceramic vessel filled with a black powder made from manganese and natural graphite—the key ingredients of what was once kohl, a widely used eye makeup.
The study, published in Archaeometry and led by Silvia Amicone, shows that this rare blend was unlike previously known formulations. While kohl was common in ancient Egypt and the Middle East, this is the first evidence of a graphite-based version from Iran, offering a unique glimpse into regional variation in ancient beauty practices.
The tomb in which the ceramic vessel was found was part of an elite burial. It contained personal ornaments, weaponry, and cosmetic tools, including two small containers and two applicators. One container still held enough of the dark powder for scientific testing.
Analysis at the University of Tübingen and the University of Padova confirmed that the powder’s black color came from a mixture of manganese oxides and natural graphite. These minerals were crushed and combined to form a fine pigment, likely applied around the eyes.
This recipe stands out from others in the ancient world. In Egypt, eye makeup often contained lead-based compounds or carbon black. In contrast, the Kani Koter sample used no lead or carbon soot. Instead, it relied on minerals available in the Zagros Mountains, rich in both manganese and graphite.
Graphite’s inclusion is particularly important. Until now, it had never been confirmed as an ingredient in ancient kohl. The mineral’s silvery-black shine and easy application would have made it ideal for lining the eyes. Its presence reflects both innovation and adaptation to local resources.
No traces of organic materials, such as oils or binders, were found in the sample. Researchers say this could be due to two possibilities. The makeup may have been made entirely from minerals, or any organic ingredients may have degraded over time. Ancient cosmetics recipes often included animal fats, plant oils, or resins, but those substances are more vulnerable to decay.
The burial itself was disturbed in 2016 by looters, but many objects were recovered by Iran’s Cultural Heritage Organization. The grave is believed to have belonged to a high-status individual, possibly a warrior. Alongside the cosmetics, the tomb contained weapons, jewelry, horse gear, and decorated items made of silver, bronze, ivory, and stone.
The kohl container and applicators were found intact, and the makeup was preserved inside a vessel, providing scientists with a rare opportunity for direct chemical analysis. This has helped researchers understand not just what people used for cosmetics but how those choices varied by region and available resources.
The finding adds to growing evidence that ancient societies in the Middle East developed their own makeup traditions. Similar cosmetic tools have been found in Assyrian-era burials and royal tombs. However, until now, few samples had been analyzed to determine what substances were actually used.
Other Iron Age kohl samples from sites like Estark–Joshaqan and Hasanlu show different recipes. Some used lead compounds, while others contained antimony or iron oxides. The Kani Koter mixture is unique in combining manganese with graphite—a pairing not previously recorded in archaeological makeup studies.
The use of graphite may have had both aesthetic and functional advantages. It reflects light, giving the skin a shimmering look, and clings easily to the surface when applied. These properties would have made it a desirable ingredient in cosmetic preparation, especially in ceremonial or elite contexts.
Researchers say this discovery helps reshape the understanding of how cosmetics were created and used in the ancient world. It also shows how deeply tied those practices were to local geology, trade, and culture.
The analysis not only reveals the contents of a single container but opens a window into how people in ancient Iran expressed identity, status, and beauty through materials drawn from the land beneath their feet.
