El Greco’s Legacy in Toledo: From Byzantine Iconography to Spanish Masterpieces

El Greco Painting
El Greco’s association with Toledo has played an important role in boosting tourism in this historical Castilian town. Public Domain
Walking through the windy streets of Toledo, a center of Castilian culture and a UNESCO World Heritage city in Spain, where the renowned painter El Greco lived and worked, visitors can admire the stunning Spanish Mudejar architecture, influenced by centuries of intercultural dialogue between Christian Iberians and Muslim Moors.
According to UNESCO, this city has successively been a Roman municipium, the capital of the Visigothic Kingdom, a fortress of the Emirate of Cordoba, an outpost of the Christian kingdoms fighting the Moors and, in the 16th century, the temporary seat of supreme power under Charles V. It is the repository of more than 2,000 years of history.
From El Greco-inspired hotels to cafés and souvenirs, the legacy of El Greco, a Byzantine-style icon painter from the Greek island of Crete (actual name Doménikos Theotokópoulos) continues to influence residents of Toledo and travelers alike.
People looking at the painting “The Burial of the Town of Orgaz” by El Greco in the San Tome Church in Toledo, Spain.
The Burial of the Count of Orgaz painting by El Greco. Image Credit: Arunansh B. Goswami.

From Crete to Toledo

El Greco was a disciple of the Venetian painter Titian and settled in Toledo mid-career, after reinventing his approach several times. Many years after El Greco left this mortal world, another Greek painter moved to Spain. In 1953, Perdikidis Dimitris combined memories of ancient Greek art with elements taken from the great Spanish painters, primarily in an abstract expressionist style. Art has indeed played an important role in bringing Spanish and Greek people closer.

El Greco
El Greco’s “Portrait of an Old Man,” believed to be a self-portrait, 1595. Credit: Public Domain

El Greco’s first major commission in what is now Spain included one of his most astonishing achievements: an altarpiece for the church of Santo Domingo el Antiguo, anchored by The Assumption of the Virgin, which this author saw during his recent visit to Toledo. It is in this church that the crypt of the famous son of Crete is located, and a nun from this author’s homeland, India, showed him the same during his visit.

El Greco painted the The Martyrdom of Saint Maurice which can be seen at the Real Monastario de San Lorenzo de El Escorial in Spain, the largest Renaissance building in the world, for King Philip II. But El Greco did not find favor at the court. He found his patrons in the Catholic hierarchy, and, painting in the service of the church, he was touched by the fervor of Spanish piety and mysticism.

According to art curator Katherine Baetjar “El Greco, who is often called a painter’s painter, had in a sense already been “rediscovered” by the artists of the nineteenth century. Delacroix, Millais, and Degas owned examples of his work, Cezanne and Sargent copied him, and Picasso admired him.” He got other projects because of his paintings for Santo Domingo el Antiguo, and by 1588 he had painted The Burial of the Count of Orgaz, the altarpiece regarded as the masterpiece of Spanish Counter-Reformation art depicting The Count of Orgaz, Don Gonzalo Ruiz de Toledo.

Painting of El Greco in the Real Monasterio de San Lorenzo de El Escorial, depicting martyrdom of Saint Maurice.
Real Monasterio de San Lorenzo de El Escorial. Image Credit: Arunansh B. Goswami / GreekReporter

Churches

This painting was done for the church of Santo Tomé in Toledo and most of El Greco’s major works were painted for institutions in and around the city—the church of the Talavera la Vieja (1591-92), the chapel of San José (1597-99), the cathedral (after 1601), the Oballe Chapel in San Vicente (from 1607), and the Tavera Hospital (from 1608).
Tomb of Don Gonzalo Ruiz de Toledo an aristocrat who lived in Toledo Spain.
Tomb of Don Gonzalo Ruiz de Toledo. Image Credit: Arunansh B. Goswami / GreekReporter

The Greek signature El Greco often used on his paintings, “Domenikos Theotokopoulos from Crete made this,” suggests a measure of pride in his Cretan origins and perhaps in the artistic tradition in which he had been raised.

Exhibition in Crete

The finest exhibits in the Historical Museum of Crete are the only two works by El Greco on display on the island: “The View of Mt. Sinai and the Monastery of St. Catherine” (1570) and “The Baptism of Christ” (1567).
Author standing near the painting by El Greco depicting resurrection of Jesus Christ in Convent of Santo Domingo El Antiguo Toledo, Spain.
Convent of Santo Domingo El Antiguo Toledo, Spain. Image Credit: Arunansh B. Goswami / GreekReporter

D. Talbot Rice wrote in 1937, “Suggestions as to the Byzantine affinities of much of El Greco’s painting have been put forward by quite many more recent writers on the subject, and the belief that Greco was indebted to the Byzantine world not only for his Greek blood but also to a considerable degree for the nature and character of his art, is now hardly to be disputed.”

His hometown of Heraklion, Crete, celebrated his 450th birthday in 1990. An important loan exhibition of some forty paintings was held at two venues—works from his Cretan and Italian periods at the Heraklion Chamber of Commerce, and from his better-known Spanish period at the Basilica of St. Mark—supplemented by a documentary exhibition at the Vikelaia Municipal Library. In addition, a marathon five-day international symposium opened the celebrations; this, like the exhibitions, was masterminded by Professor Nicos Hadjinicolaou of the University of Crete.
Author standing near the gate of Convent of Santo Domingo El Antigua in Toledo.
Convent of Santo Domingo El Antigua in Toledo. Image Credit: Arunansh B. Goswami / GreekReporter

Museum

The El Greco House Museum is located in the Jewish quarter of Toledo. This museum was established in 1910 by Don Benigno de la Vega-Inclan y Flaquer, the II Marquis of Vega-Inclan. The houses where it has been established were restored by the architect Eladio Laredo. In 1905, the Marquis bought some ruined houses near the Transito Synagogue, aiming to recover a characteristically 16th-century Spanish environment and recreate what might have been El Greco’s house in Toledo. He acquired the so-called houses of the Duchess of Arjona, which were close to the properties of the Marquis of Villena, where El Greco lived.

Legacy

El Greco left not just his masterpieces in Toledo but also his influence on European art has added one more reason for tourists to visit Toledo. El Greco’s association with Toledo has played an important role in boosting tourism in this historical Castilian town.
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